1838 - A Rhubarb Jam Contretemps

I find this story delightful.   Gentlemen in the early 1800s vying for the bragging rights to being the inventor of rhubarb jam.

1837 -The Gardener's Magazine and Register of Rural & Domestic Improvement Volume 13

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1838 - The Gardener's Magazine and Register of Rural & Domestic Improvement Volume 14

Rhubarb Jelly and Jam. (p. 395.)—I see, by the last Number of the Gardener's Magazine, that Mr. Joseph Johnson of Northenden, Cheshire, is giving himself much uneasiness about the rhubarb jelly, and evidently wishes to be considered the original inventor of it. He may be; but I do not see what right he has to say that I got the hint at Manchester. Such was not the case. Indeed, I never heard of such an article till June, 1837, when we were making a trial of a tart of Buck's new early scarlet rhubarb, the juice of which was quite as high-coloured as that of red currants. Finding this, I suggested the making a trial of it as jelly, which was done on the 16th of June, 1837. Afterwards, it was tried in the form of jam; and both turned out uncommonly well, and in both instances the colour was preserved fully as rich and clear as that made from red currants. On the 20th of October, 1837 (three months after the date of the paper noticed in your Magazine, July 19. 1837), I visited Manchester; and some rhubarb jelly was then shown me by Mr. Campbell, probably the remains of the jar given him by Mr. Johnson. The sample shown was made with green rhubarb and brown sugar; and I suppose it was from this frightful specimen that Mr. Johnson supposes that I was led to the making of it.  If so, I beg to inform him that he was never more mistaken. I was lately informed by a gentlemen from Shetland, and which I state for Mr. Johnson's information, that the practice of making jelly from green rhubarb has been carried on there for many years; as, unless the seasons are fine, no other preserve can be made. — J.M'Nab, Edinburgh, Aug. 20, 1838.

[Mr. M'Nab sent us, with this communication, pots of both the jelly and the jam. The latter was most excellent, having a beautiful colour, and a fine flavour: the former was equally good in colour and flavour, but it had not formed a jelly, being of the consistence of rich syrup.— Cond.]

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1839 -The Gardener's Magazine and Register of Rural & Domestic Improvement Volume 15

Retrospective Criticism

Rhubarb Jam. (Vol. XIV. p. 541.) — 

In the last Number of the Gardener's Magazine (p. 541.), we are favoured with a fresh illustration of the stale subject, rhubarb jam, which we thought had gone quietly to rest; but opinions run counter, and the candour of your correspondent has laid us under the necessity of showing the credence of his statement, and the degree of consistency on which his pretensions to the discovery are founded. I am cognisant of the facts, and will, with your permission, lay them before your readers.

It is true that Mr. Johnson sent me a jar of rhubarb jam in the summer of 1836, also a verbal statement of the manner in which it was prepared. It was the first sample of the kind I had seen, and I requested he would have the goodness to send you the particulars for the Gardener's Magazine. It was his wish that so desirable an article should have publicity; but he had some intentions that summer to visit London, and meant to present you with a sample.

Mr. J. M'Nab paid us a visit in the autumn of 1837, and the " frightful composition of green rhubarb and brown sugar" which he experimented on, was none of Mr. Johnson's, but ours.  He was informed of this fact at the time, though he found it convenient to state the contrary; and, as we see no particular reason why Mr. Johnson should monopolize the credit which is due to us for that delightful specimen, we invite any of your readers who take an interest in such matters to a fair trial of the ingredients; the result will not disappoint them.

In Vol. XIII. p. 460., Mr. M'Nab has the " sole merit of introducing this novelty."  Mr. Johnson allows (Vol. XIV. p. 395.) " that he might have the credit of introducing the jam into Scotland, but that the suggestion which led to his making the trial was his, for "I had informed him ;" a positive fact on the part of Mr. Johnson, though Mr. J. M'Nab declares he never heard of any thing of the kind, till the blushing virtues of his tart demonstration of 1837 furnished him a clue to the invention; but let it not be lost sight of, that he is silent as the grave respecting his visit to this place on his return from the Sheffield exhibition in the autumn of 1836. 

Why, let us ask, could he not favour the public with a portion of his gleanings on that occasion? It was inconvenient to hint at the subject, and we appreciate the motive; for it was on that visit I informed him of the sample of rhubarb jam which was sent me that summer, and of the manner in which (I was told) it was prepared. Will he deny this fact, of which he made a memorandum on the spot? 

I refer him to his note-book; and, if farther proof be necessary, I will verify my statement on oath. Mr. Johnson's receipt is simply this: To one pound of rhubarb stalks, cut as if for a tart, add one pound of lump or brown sugar, boil till the ingredients are well blended, and acquire the proper consistence. We need not trouble your readers with the details necessary in making jelly; but may remark that ginger (not ground) and candied lemon, boiled in the jelly or jam, is a decided improvement. Jelly of a superior quality has been made in this neighbourhood in this manner. Buck's rhubarb has the preference in point of colour, but in no other quality that we are aware of. — Alexander Campbell, BotanicGarden, Manchester, Nov. 19. 1838.

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1858  (an American Publication)

The Practical Fruit, Flower and Vegetable Gardener's Companion: With Calendar

  The stalks of Buck's Early and the Elford are of a bright scarlet color, which they retain even when forced in the dark; and they are at the same time tender and of delicate flavor.   Excellent jam and jelly have been made from these by Mr. James M'Nab, of the Horticultural Society's Garden, Edinburgh.  

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Below are recipes for rhubarb jam from before the men invented it...

1836

The Cottager's monthly visitor

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1825

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1823 - 
Something tells me the gentlemen  having the discussion about who was first with a rhubarb jam would get an amused glance from many cooks!

The Cook and Housekeeper's Complete and Universal Dictionary: Including a System of Modern Cookery, in All Its Various Branches, Adapted to the Use of Private Families : Also a Variety of Original and Valuable Information, Relative to Baking, Brewing, Carving ... and Every Other Subject Connected with Domestic Economy

RHUBARB PIE. Peel the stalks of the plant, cut them about an inch long, put them into a dish with moist sugar, a little water and lemon peel. Put on the crust, and bake it in a moderate oven.

RHUBARB PUDDING. Put four dozen clean sticks of rhubarb into a stewpan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon, two cloves, and as much moist sugar as will sweeten it. Set it over the fire, and reduce it to a marmalade. Pass it through a hair sieve, then add the peel of a lemon, half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of good butter, the yolks of four eggs, and one white, and mix all well together. Line a pie dish with good puff paste, put in the mixture, and bake it half an hour. This will make a good spring pudding.

RHUBARB SAUCE. To make a mock gooseberry-sauce for mackarel, reduce three dozen sticks of rhubarb to a marmalade, and sweeten it with moist sugar. Pass it through a hair sieve, and serve it up in a boat.

—Mock gooseberry-fool is made of rhubarb marmalade, prepared as for a pudding. Add a pint of good thick cream, serve it up in glasses, or in a deep dish. If wanted in a shape, dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a little water, strain it through a tammis, and when nearly cold put it to the cream. Pour it into a jelly mould, and when set, turn it out into a dish, and serve it up plain.

RHUBARB SHERBET. Boil six or eight sticks of clean rhubarb in a quart of water, ten minutes. Strain the liquor through a tammis into a jug, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar. Let it stand five • or six hours, and it will be fit to drink.

RHUBARB SOUP. There are various ways of dressing garden rhubarb, which serves as an excellent substitute for spring fruit. Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb, blanch it in water three or four minutes, drain it on a sieve, and put it into a stewpan with two sliced onions, a carrot, an ounce of lean ham, and a good bit of butter. Let it stew gently over a slow fire till tender, then put in two quarts of rich soup, to which add two or three ounces of bread crumbs, and boil it about fifteen minutes. Skim off all the fat, season with salt and cayenne, pass it through a tammis, and serve it up with fried bread. (Tamis is the modern spelling: a drum sieve)

RHUBARB TART. Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, and take off the thin skin. Lay them in a dish, pour on a thin syrup of sugar and water, cover them with another dish, and let it simmer very slowly for an hour on a hot hearth; or put the rhubarb into a block-tin saucepan, and simmer it over the fire. When cold, make it into a tart; the baking of the crust will be sufficient, if the rhubarb be quite tender.

Rhubarb from Seed: Good, and Good For You

Watching the weather on the 5 o'clock news tonight, I was totally appalled to hear we may be getting 6 inches more snow.  I love snow, I really do, but my town is covered already to that lovely stage where everything is smooth...the weeds are buried, the bumps evened out.  The roads are reasonably clear, too...all is right with the world.  But now, more snow.  *sigh*   So, I am writing about my very favorite springtime event...the coming of the rhubarb.  I love rhubarb, my husband loves rhubarb!  When he was single, I hear (often), one year on his birthday he had seven rhubarb pies made for him by seven ladies.  Now he gets one. 

Rhubarb is usually started nowadays by buying a root division. Seeds are still available but they have the interesting, or annoying, property of being very variable.

When you sow them you will get a variety of plants which you can pick through for the sort you like.  The highly colored crimson stems may be present, but so are green ones.  They taste the same but the color is lovely...and traditionally the colored stems brought more money in the market.

It wasn't used greatly as a stewed treat or pie until into the 19th century. In 1810, "Mr. George Myatts of Deptford, England,... sent his two sons to market with five bunches of rhubarb stalks, of which they could sell only three". By the late 1800s it was accepted and a very good market garden product. 

It was pursued with great fervor as a purgative, however, for hundreds of years before then with a huge amount of effort and money spent on traveling to distant countries looking for the best rhubarb, the elusive "true" rhubarb that was being traded from Russia and China. 

Link: Pantologia. A new (cabinet) cyclopædia, by J.M. Good, O. Gregory, and N. Bosworth assisted by other gentlemen of eminence - 1819  This is a passionate history that conveys the importance placed upon rhubarb as a curative. A story of complexity and adventure; a search for the best laxative...perhaps not movie material but interesting.

Link: Early Canadian Gardening: An 1827 Nursery Catalogue, By Eileen Woodhead  This is a clear history you can follow :-)  A currently available retail book.

Below are some modern rhubarb seed dealers.  Following that are a few articles from the 1800s and some rhubarb ephemera.  Enjoy!

There are few varieties commonly offered anymore. 

Rhubarb

Rheum rhabarbarum

Rhubarb is a garden anchor common around old farm houses.  It is long lived and typically     grown by dividing the plant crowns.  Starting from seed is not difficult but you will need to     plant at least twenty seeds to cull out ones that do not exhibit the desired traits for the         variety.  For the average family, three plants will be enough.                                                

Rhubarb 'Glaskin's Perpetual'

Rheum x hybridumHardy Perennial
Started in heat in late winter Rhubarb 'Glaskins Perpetual' can be harvested lightly the following year. The large, juicy stems are excellent for tarts, pies, jam, and wine. As its name suggests, this reliable rhubarb can be harvested late in the season due to its low oxalic acid content. This easy to grow garden variety will produce some variation in the seedlings ranging from green to pink and even red stemmed plants. Height: 60cm (24"). Spread: 120cm (47").   1 packet (60 seeds)

Victoria Heirloom Rhubarb Seed

Perennial. OP Heirloom. Victoria has been around since 1837, and originated in England. It is reliable, productive, and long lived. It has a gourmet, winey/tart flavor that complements strawberries just perfectly. We can up dozens of jars of strawberry/rhubarb jam and syrup from our Victoria patch every year. It also freezes well, so you can have rhubarb cake in January! Rhubarb is easy to grow from seed. It does not require bottom heat. It prefers cool room temperature to germinate. The plants start small, however, and should not be harvested from until the second year. Folks seem to want their rhubarb red, although we have never noted a taste difference between red and green. Grown from seed the color is variable. If you want red, start extra seeds and select the reddest seedlings. Germinated at 80%.

Old Homestead

This variety has been grown on my family’s farm in Fisher Branch, Manitoba since my great grandparents first settled there. The greenish stems are good for pies and very hardy and long lived! Perennial. Zone 2   Package Qty: 25-50 seeds - Price: $3.00

Strawberry (Pre 1930)

An old extremely rare variety that I obtained from the noted food historian William Woys Weaver. It was part of his grandfather’s collection in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. A very nice rhubarb with reddish stalks. In general, seed grown rhubarb is quite variable, but a good number of seedlings should have red stalks like the parent. Rhubarb is very easy to grow from seed and is usually ready to harvest lightly the following year. Perennial. Zone 2 "Not Available for 2014" Package Qty: 25-50 seeds Price: $3.00

VictoriaExcellent cooking quality in this early, abundant producer.

Victoria is well-adapted to most regions and is widely grown commercially. The large, tender, rosy-red stalks gradually turn to pink and then solid green towards the tip. Sweeter and milder than other varieties. Grows best in Zones 2-8. Avg. 31,300 seeds/lb. Packet: 100 seeds.

Now, here are the varieties from the 1865 - The Field and Garden Vegetables of America! 
We used to be more serious about our rhubarb!

 Rhubarb was a very useful and effective cathartic, as the period literature called it, and much valued.  Basically a good laxative, rhubarb is well tolerated by people, including children, so it was used in many concoctions.

Here are some recipes from A Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts, and Collateral Information in the Arts, Manufactures, Professions, and Trades, Including Medicine, Pharmacy, and Domestic Economy: Designed as a Comprehensive Supplement to the Pharmacopoeias, and General Book of Reference for the Manufacturer, Tradesman, Amateur, and Heads of Families. 1856

Rhubarb is the earliest "fruit" and it was looked forward to by people craving fresh produce after a long winter.  I called it a fruit because in the United States it was classified as such, letting it be imported with less tariff than vegetables.

Me, I like it baked in the oven until "stewed" when I plop sweetened biscuit dough on top.  I use mostly stevia for the sweetener, but add some brown sugar to give the sweet taste some deeper "notes".  Orange zest added before stewing is really good!  And a pinch of real cinnamon, I think...my hands usually do it without me thinking...but that is it I believe.  Happy Spring!